Machu Picchu

Yesterday we completed our speedy trip to Machu Picchu. The day was amazing with everyone in awe of the Inca site. Even the rain managed to stay mostly away to allow for lots of exploring of the ruins and old temple sites. The guide added masses of detail of how the site must have worked and what the buildings were used for – all very interesting!

 

The team at Machu Picchu.

We are now heading back to Lima for our return flight to the UK, which should arrive on Friday morning. This will be the last update apart from some minor modifications on return to the UK.  Thank you for all of your support throughout the expedition.

Off to Cusco.

With the amended objective mountain achieved and now being located in the south of Peru there is just time to move to Cusco (another overnight bus!). From there the plan will be to go to Machu Picchu in a one day trip in order to visit the best cultural site in Peru. We are heading off tonight (now) and so should arrive in Cusco in the early hours of tomorrow Sunday). This phase, albeit very brief, will add a cultural dimension to the expedition and hopefully make an exciting finale.

Coropuna (Peru’s 3rd highest peak) climbed! (Part 3)

It is never pleasant waking up at 0030 hours to start the day, but at 5400m in a frozen tent with significant wind chill it requires some sort of motivation – luckily the challenge of scaling Peru’s 3^rd highest mountain was just what was required! The climb from high camp immediately started on ice hard snow with just the glow of head torches and some moonlight to find sound foot placements. Shortly into the climb we donned crampons and moved onto steeper terrain to ascend through ice covered rock buttresses, it was probably just as well it was still dark. The team were doing really well at this stage with everyone doing well to stay warm and keeping moving. As we reached the end of the mixed snow and rock ridge the sun was begging to rise bringing much needed warm to the team struggling with the freezing temperatures – water bottles frozen solid, down jackets and even full balaclavas on, in the case of LCpl Bayliss. As the never ending convex snow down began to reduce in steepness we drew closer to the summit. By this stage movement was either at leopard (LCpl Eaves) or monkey (Cpl Berry) crawl pace. Alternatively for Spr Hill, getting to the next zig or zag was sufficient for a collapse and a regaining of breath session. However, perseverance and overcoming fatigue and hardship beyond the levels ever experienced by the soldiers paid off and the whole team (100% success) were standing on the summit of Coropuna – a truly incredible and hard won experience.

Moraine, snow slopes and rock ridges - the route to Coropuna.

Coropuna summit - 100% success! Down jackets a plenty - it was very cold.

Coropuna (Peru’s 3rd highest peak) climbed! (Part 2)

The move to high camp was uphill over lose scree and rock, in big mountain boots and full packs it proved to be a challenge. We were all acclimatised to 5000m but with such a lack of oxygen at that height just breathing is hard enough. On arrival at high camp (just below the height of Ishinca) we pitched the tents and took stock of the task ahead – 1100m of ascent through snow covered moraine, rock buttresses and steep snow slopes to the summit of Coropuna. With an alpine start ahead we retired to the tents after a huge pasta meal to give us maximum energy for the following day.

The team moving up to high camp - nothing is easy at 5300m!

The view ahead - Coropuna is the right hand peak.

Spr McDonagh with the Coropuna glacier behind.

High camp set below the Coropuna ice cliffs.

Cpl A'Hara and Spr Rosyln relaxing at high camp.

Spr Wagstaff at high camp.

The sun sets at high camp with Cpl A'Hara (orange) and Spr Roslyn brushing their teeth.

Coropuna (Peru’s 3rd highest peak) climbed! (Part 1)

The move from Arequipa to Coropuna base camp was going well up until 40 minutes into the journey when one of the 4x4 vehicles started to produce lots of steam. Luckily the driver, Carlos, was able to tinker with more spanners than most garages possess and after about 2 hours we were back on the road. The drive was through extremely barren terrain with the dusty volcanic landscape only very briefly interspersed with green where the occasional river enabled plants to grow. The 8, now 10 hour journey ended at 5000m where we established base camp in a desolate spot in the shadow of Coropuna.

Breakdown just 40 minutes into the journey! Luckily Sapper "MT" Sheldon was on hand to provide advice.

Sapper Roslyn at base camp, packing for the move up the mountain.

The desolate landscape - even the lake makes little impact on the hostile countryside.

Arrival in Arequipa

After 24 hours of coach travel from Huaraz to Lima (7 hours, 400km) and Lima to Arequipa (17 hours, 1014km) we have arrived in the beautiful town of Arequipa, Peru's second city. After some interesting taxi antics we have arrived at the hostel and are preparing for the move to Coropuna (6425m). Logistics (transport and food) have been arranged so the plan for the next 5 days is as follows:

Tue 13 May 14 – Administration

Wed 14 May 14 – Move to base camp

Thu 15 May 14 – Move to high camp (5500m)
Fri 16 May 14 – Attempt Coropuna (6425m)
Sat 17 May 14 – (TBC) return from Coropuna.

The weather is looking good, so fingers crossed for success.

 

12 soldiers and 24 large grip bags and bergens = a very full collectivo. The bus just about to leave the hostel in Huaraz, luckily this was only a 30-minute trip to the main bus station.

 

The move south

With continued bad weather forecast and climbers reporting woeful conditions on Ishinca (5530m) yesterday, we have decided to move to southern Peru to the Cordillera Occidental. The high plains generally have more stable conditions and current weather forecasts are not predicting precipitation of any sort. The new base will be Arequipa and the plan will be to attempt Nevado Coropuna (6425m). The move will be by bus and will be from Huaraz to Lima, then Lima to Arequipa with an expected arrival on Tuesday 13 May 14. From Arequipa we will plan the mountain phase (likely to be a 4/5 day expedition).
So more to follow and hopefully the move south will bring better weather and more luck!

Huascaran forecast - snow!

Coropuna forecast - no snow and wind reducing.

The avalanche escape. (Copa part 3 of 3)

After packing away the tents and equipment each rope group descended back to the gulley. Attempting to retrace our steps from the day before (now totally snow covered) we saw the loose snow avalanche that had taken place on our ascent route. It was a typical overloading of snow on a slope of about 40 degrees (the slopes we would have had to cross if ascending Copa) that saw a thin (about 35cm) snow layer fail but with a 400-500m length of avalanche. The debris field at the top of the gulley was extensive – returning to safer ground was definitely the safe choice. With the gulley now full of snow we carefully move back to base camp. There was time to see the normal route ascent option – up the right hand part of the gulley, which had also been avalanched.  Further proof of what was likely to be happening higher up the mountain, especially with 12 bodies adding weight to the snow pack.

The team at high camp before extraction.

Slope avalanced - about 50m width at the bottom but extending over 400m from front to back.

Left to Right: LCpl Bayliss, Spr Roslyn and Cpl A'Hara sheltering from snow and loose rock on route back to base camp.

The entire team nearly back at base camp.

Full concentration required crossing the boulder field.

Spr Sheldon enjoying more snow!



The town of Vicos (pick up point on return from Copa).



Snow, snow and more snow (Copa Part 2 of 3)

High camp (at 5200m) was established and after some cups of hot chocolate and food we escaped into the tents. During the night the snow continued (originally predicted to stop). At about 0400hrs Cpl Berry exclaimed that their tent had collapsed alerting the whole team to the fact that there had been over 40cm of snow and some tents were completely engulfed in the snow. After a concerted digging out effort and frequent tent shaking we got through the night. Now faced with masses of fresh snow on an unconsolidated snow pack the decision to return to base camp and Huaraz was a quick one.

Front to back: Spr Hill, Spr McDonagh and LCpl Bayliss ascending to high camp.

Setting up high camp at 5200m.

Laguna Legiacocha (4700m) before the snow.

Laguna Legiacocha (4700m) after the snow.

The snow starts at high camp.

Guide Cesar digging out some of the tents.

It is time to go - tents engulfed in snow, even after frequent shaking and digging out!

Copa and the avalanches but all down safely (part 1 of 3)

 

We set off for Copa (6188m) for a 5-day expedition on Tuesday 6 May 2014 aiming to avoid the heavy rain and snow storms predicted. The first day saw us ascend 1500m to Copa base camp in pretty good weather just in time to erect the tents before the heavens opened (and continued to stay open!). The next day saw the team being thoroughly tested. The move to high camp (5200m) with full expedition packs, technical gear and movement over particularly challenging terrain was a fantastic achievement. You would get some funny looks climbing Mount Blanc with full expedition packs.  The route initially rose above Laguna Legiacocha and then over a boulder field before reaching the gulley that leads onto the Copa ridge. The normal route, right hand side of the gulley, looked a little ominous (high probability of stone fall) with the left side looking steep and full of scree but more passable. We weaved through the huge hanging boulders and rock steps to reach the glacier. The route then was up for 200m (vertical ascent) over the glacier to the high camp. By this stage the snow was falling constantly…

Copa base camp with the glacier tongue behind.

Left to Right: Cpl A'Hara, Spr McDonagh, Spr Wagstaff and Spr Hill at 4650m (Copa base camp).

The route to Copa high camp - left of the central rock rib up the scree and overhanging cliffs!

LCpl Bayliss moving up the gulley to Copa high camp.

Cpl Berry reaching high camp with a brief parting of clouds behind.



The final steep pitch up to high camp at 5200m.

 

Copa here we come

We should be back on Saturday for the next update...

Team reflections on climbing Ishinca (5530m)

Spr “Benny” Hill: “This mountain literally took my breath away.”

Spr Dan Sheldon: “No más montañas, no más for mi.”

Spr “Waggy” Wagstaff: “You call that a mountain, bring on Huascaran!”

Spr Jordan McDonagh: “I hate snow, it breaks me!” (On falling waist deep into the snow, every step, on return from Ishinca)

 

Spr Sam Roslyn: “How is that guy not tired yet?” (Reference mountain guide Cesar)

 

 

 

Spr Matt Dalley: “This hill is easy. Crampons, what’s the point?”

 

LCpl Tom Eaves: “Mountaineering is for hats.”

LCpl Ant Bayliss: “This mountain is emotional.”

Cpl Chuck Berry: “I think I may need a hip replacement after that one. Bottle of vino and a massage should do the trick!”

Cpl Jim A’Hara: “Dos montañas más, finito!”

Capt Damian Warren: “Just 2 more alpine starts, phew!”

Maj John Tolan: “I had a really bad dream last night. …”

The rain in Peru falls mainly in Huaraz!

We returned to Huaraz just in time as the rain storms continue – this is a photo looking towards the Cordillera Blanca between lightning flashes taken today at 1600hrs.  Fingers crossed we will be able to get out onto the next mountain phase…

The view from the hostel - there are some mountains somewhere!

Ishinca 5530m – Success!

30 Apr 14. After completing the acclimatisation phase based from Huaraz, the team set off for Pashpa, the start of the walk into the Ishinca valley. Copa (the next mountain phase) dominated the landscape as we turned into the deep sided valley which had a mystical Lord of the Rings feel to it with the drooping trees and swirling mist. We adopted a steady pace as we were moving to a sleeping height of over 4300m, the highest we would have slept at, but lower than the team’s highest altitude reached so far (4618m). On reaching the base camp we sorted kit and sheltered from the heavy rain storm that had been chasing us up the valley. 
 

1 May 14 - Skills Day. To enhance the skills learnt on the winter mountain foundation course, the team completed a series of alpine skills lessons. They included a central roping up brief and then a round robin of crevasse rescue, abseiling, belaying and using prussic loops to ascend a fixed rope. The base camp was set in impressive scenery with Tocllaraju (6034m) towering over us. The afternoon soon passed with kit packing and final team equipment checks taking place.

2 May 14 – Ishinca Summit Day. Reveille was at 0145hrs ready for breakfast at 0200hrs with a departure for Ishinca at 0300hrs. We headed off with head torches shining into the black night and zig-zagged up a small track until about 4900m where we stopped to put our crampons on and rope up. Dawn was already upon us revealing magnificent views of the Cordillera Blanca and the 6000m beast; Ranrapalca (see below). The team, divided into 4 rope groups, set off across the glacier winding through crevasse fields and steep ice cliffs. After about 3hrs of moving up the snow slops we reached a col where the sun provided some warmth and paused for water and food. The views were spectacular but with some cloud building on the eastern flanks due to the warm air rising from the amazon jungle many miles below. Each rope group set off up to the final summit pyramid. This was a steep snow slope but in very good condition (well banked out with lots of snow). The teams ascended one at a time to reach the summit of Ishinca (5530m) at 1130hrs.  Every expedition member reached the summit, many digging in hard mentally to get there but all making it. After a few photos the rope groups returned over the snow slopes, now much softer having been warmed by the midday sun. All of the teams were back to the roping up point by 1400hrs and soon back to base camp just as the rain started.



It was an incredible success for the team, many having just one week’s winter training in Scotland to prepare for a 5000m peak in the Peruvian Andes. To put it into perspective Mount Blanc, the highest peak in the European Alps is 4810m, so to have all summited Ishinca, 700m higher, just 9-days after arrival in Peru is fantastic.

Spr Wagstaff getting to grips with abseiling techniques at base camp.

 

Spr McDonagh taking a brief pause on the walk into Ishinca.

Spr Roslyn navigating by headtorch at 0452hrs for the route into Ishinca.

Views to Ranrapalca (6162m) before the cloud arrives.

Front to back: Spr Hill, Spr McDonagh and LCpl Bayliss moving up the snow slopes.

Capt Warren approaching the col with Spr Hill behind.

Food and water stop – the teams take 5 minutes to get some energy on board.




Maj Tolan pointing out the route to Spr Sheldon while pausing at the col.

Summit success – the team on the summit of Ishinca (5530m).

LCpl Eaves posing on Ishinca summit.

Cpl Berry getting the obligatory summit shot.

Views to the north, Copa is in there somewhere!

Descending from the summit of Ishinca, front to back: Spr Hill, Spr McDonagh and LCpl Bayliss. The dots below and right are the reminder of the team giving the scale and gradient of the descent!